Wednesday 23 March 2016

Moscow Designers Played With Science and Folklore on Monday

After tackling the fall 2016 shows in New York, London and Milan and Paris, we've kept the fashion train rolling all the way through to Moscow, where the 32nd season of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia (MBFWR) is currently underway in the capital.
Read on for the looks that caught our attention on the fourth day of shows, and check out our favorites from over the weekend

Alena Akhmadullina

Photo: Oleg Nikishin/Epsilon/Getty Images
Photo: Oleg Nikishin/Epsilon/Getty Images
Practical considerations aside, Alena Akhmadullina is the Russian designer from MBFWR that could most easily command a presence on the runways in Paris, where she regularly presents her collection via showroom. But it seems the lure of a hometown performance is too strong: the audience was packed with A-list Russian celebrities and editors (according to my star assistant here, Irina Loskutova). Akhmadullina's fall collection took inspiration from folktales: Mongolian, Tibetan and Buryat elements took form in silhouettes, imagery and embroidery. I particularly enjoyed the ugly-chic accessories, but my favorite piece was a leather skirt/apron that popped up on several looks. It accentuated the waist and hips and felt feminine in a tough, utilitarian way. 

Dasha Gauser

Photo: Oleg Nikishin/Epsilon/Getty Images
Photo: Oleg Nikishin/Epsilon/Getty Images
Backstage after her latest runway show, Dasha Gauser said she was the second Russian to have a dream about the periodic table of elements. (Its inventor Dmitri Mendeleev famously came up with the now-standard scientific table in a dream.) And while the results could have veered too kitschy, Gauser managed to use the table almost like a standard check pattern along with other school science lab drawings of beakers and chemical compounds. The wrap dress above stood out for its wearability and the way the table's placement flatters the body. The plastic glasses and gloves are perfect finishing touches, too, as was the Missy Elliot soundtrack. 

EZ by Elena Zemtsova ContraFashion

Photo: Oleg Nikishin/Epsilon/Getty Images
Photo: Oleg Nikishin/Epsilon/Getty Images
This look designed by Elena Zemtsova is ideal workplace attire for days when you want to speak softly and carry a big stick. She showed her collection as part of ContraFashion, a young designer collective that has occupied a slot at MBFWR for several seasons, each time promising some of the wildest looks of the week. 

Portnoy Beso

Photo: Oleg Nikishin/Epsilon/Getty Images
Photo: Oleg Nikishin/Epsilon/Getty Images
The vast majority of designers this week have shown some form of a red dress (it is a Russian patriotic color, after all) and Portnoy Beso's version stood out for its on-trend long sleeves and delicate pleating.

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